I arrived in Uruguay three years ago today. I had never been to South America before, spoke very little Spanish, and felt lost. After three years, I speak Spanish and feel quite at home, although I would not recognise my immediate next-door neighbours if I saw them. This evening, I drove out of my house and passed dozens of children dressed up as witches and ghosts, tricking and treating around the neighbourhood. But I was on my way to a very different celebration.

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