First published by International Living, Sept 10, 2007

Have you ever heard of a capybara? I hadn’t, until last week,

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when I spent a night at El Silencio, an estancia a hundred miles north of Montevideo in Uruguay. The capybara, known locally as a carpincho, is a semi-aquatic herbivorous animal, endemic to South America east of the Andes. Mariela, the estancia owner, found an orphaned baby one several years ago, and keeps him in a paddock with her horses. He’s an affectionate creature, and rather beautiful, considering he belongs to the family of the world’s largest rodents.

El Silencio is a traditional Uruguayan ranch, rearing hundreds of sheep and cows. The nineteenth century farmhouse is built around a central patio, and the only feature which has been added to the original building is a large dining hall at the front, where guests can sit by the fire and watch the spectacular moonrises and dazzling stars. Close by there is indigenous woodland, and the River Maciel. The food is unpretentious and delicious, and the staff friendly. There are three comfortable ensuite double bedrooms, and two dormitories, with five beds in each.

As I returned from a leisurely horseride in the evening, I realised I had come on a very special day. Three men were rolling massive bales of wool onto a truck. I was told that all the wool shorn over the last four years had been stockpiled in a barn, and today was the day: the price was right, and it was being sold.

At El Silencio, guests can join in with the gauchos’ daily chores, or ride, fish, swim in the river, or enjoy the spectacular bird life.

Mariela will welcome you as one of the family. She drove me ten miles in her truck to meet Nelida, the ‘abuelita’ – little granny – a cheerful old lady who lives in a modest home and is kept busy making ponchos and saddle linings for the local gauchos. Using raw wool, she cards, spins, dyes and weaves, and the results are worthy of any luxury boutique. I had a lot of fun trying my hand on her simple loom.
I ordered a king-sized bedspread in large natural and brown checks. ‘Certainly, Señora, you will have it by Christmas.’ Never mind that Christmas means midsummer, sweltering nights and cotton sheets, I shall treasure Nelida’s work of art.

Fact sheet:
A night in a double room at ‘El Silencio’ costs a modest $30.00 including breakfast. The estancia is affiliated with the Youth Hostels Association, and a night in one of the dorms costs around $10.00.

The estancia is within easy reach of the town of Durazno, with its unique church, well-kept museum, and belle époque architecture. And if it’s not only ‘silencio’ that you are after, Durazno hosts a huge range of festivals throughout the year, including the Festival of Folklore in February and the hugely popular rock festival in October.

To get there from Montevideo, take the Ruta 5 to Durazno, then follow the Ruta 14 towards Trinidad for 7 miles. The Estancia is well-signposted on your left, at Km 166.

There is a regular bus service from the Tres Cruces bus terminal in Montevideo.

If you would like to see photos of Durazno and el Silencio, follow this link:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=16523&l=25ae0&id=664241054